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Environmental impacts of the market for second-hand clothes

(2023)

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Abstract
The fashion industry is notorious for its severe ecological and social impact, making it one of the most polluting industries globally. This is primarily due to the traditional linear "take-make-waste" system, which fuels the fast fashion industry's growth, leading to overconsumption and environmental degradation. To counter this, the clothing industry has started to embrace circular models such as slow fashion, which prioritises quality over quantity and rejects overconsumption. Second-hand clothing is one of the most popular forms of slow fashion, with platforms like Vinted driving their growth. In Belgium, more and more people now turn to Vinted to purchase second-hand clothes in an attempt to lessen the fashion industry's environmental impact. However, it is unclear whether buying second-hand clothes on Vinted is undeniably better for the environment. Therefore, this thesis aims to determine the concrete environmental benefits of purchasing second-hand clothes on Vinted and identify influencing factors. Although existing literature has explored the environmental impacts of second-hand clothing and the factors that influence them, it is unclear whether these findings apply to the Belgian population when purchasing second-hand items on the Vinted platform. Therefore, this thesis adopts a quantitative approach, namely a life cycle analysis, which draws on existing life cycle analysis data, company reports and a survey of the Belgian population. The results confirm the high lifespan left of second-hand clothing on Vinted, refute the generally reported replacement rate, and demonstrate that environmental benefits vary by garment type, with a potential rebound effect observed for T-shirts. The results highlight the importance of responsible behaviour and use of the platform to maximise environmental benefits. Drawing on these findings, we have drafted recommendations for stakeholders and called for further research into recycling and sustainable production in the fashion industry.